Thursday, January 12, 2017

2015.04.12 -- Purnululu, Broome, and the Horries

A trip to the Kimberley region of Western Australia including Purnululu National Park, Broome, and the horizontal falls. The Kimberley is the northernmost part of Western Australia, and the highlights of the trip included hiking around the Beehives in the Bungle Bungle Range of Purnululu National Park, the beautiful beaches of Broome, and a day long seaplane adventure to the Horizontal Falls.

Credit for image sourcing


Robert wrote the python script that allowed us to scrape the image urls from google photos, instead of copy/paste for 80 images. Nice work there.

Purnululu National Park


We started the trip by flying into Kununurra, about 3000 km from Perth and 300 km north of Purnululu National Park, on a little 20 seat plane. We rented a 4WD and drove along some very empty roads, about 1/3 of them dirt, to get to the lodge for East Kimberly Tours (EKT) deep inside Purnululu National Park.

A number of tour companies have lodges set up in the Bungle Bungle range. If you click the link below to google maps you should get a satellite image of the Bungle Bungle range, and the "Beehives", one of the main draws for the trip to Purnululu (Beehives).

The lodge was a series of small buildings with bunks, a small pool, and a large dining hall. We stayed at the lodge for 3 nights, as the base camp for exploration of the north and south sides of the Bungle Bungle.

On the drive into the East Kimberly Tours lodge, Purnululu National Park 20150413_224141.jpg

We had to cross serveral stream beds like this one on the way to the EKT lodge, and in the wet season we would have needed a boat 20150414_012417.jpg

The Beehives in the background 20150414_174005.jpg

More Beehive sandstone formations 20150414_174336.jpg

Beehive hike (1). It was the hot season, so enough water was a serious concern 20150414_180818.jpg

Beehive hike (2) 20150414_181441.jpg

Beehive hike (3) 20150414_181704.jpg

Beehive hike (4) 20150414_185639.jpg

Beehive hike (5) -- this may be more fun in the wet season when you can swim all over the place 20150414_190028.jpg

Beehive hike (6) 20150414_190253.jpg

Beehive hike (7) -- Picaninny Creek 20150414_190916.jpg

Beehive hike (8) -- Panorama 20150414_195216.jpg

Beehive hike (9) 20150414_195306.jpg

Beehive hike (10) -- Cathedral Gorge 20150414_205937.jpg

Beehive hike (11) -- some shade was afforded by the cliffs for parts of the hike 20150414_205951.jpg

Beehive hike (12) 20150414_210733.jpg

Beehive hike (13) 20150414_210831.jpg

Beehive hike (14) 20150414_212149.jpg

Beehive hike (15) 20150414_223321.jpg

Beehive hike (16) -- these hikers appear to want to be back at the pool at the lodge 20150414_232911.jpg

Sandstone hoodoos observed on the drive back to the EKT lodge 20150415_001637.jpg

The East Kimberly Tours dining hall 20150415_152938.jpg

EKT guide, cook, and handyman 20150415_155858.jpg

We had very nice hearty meals at night at the lodge, and listened to some interesting stories, including the beginning of the EKT company, the building of the lodge, and the business. A lot of tour companies fly in/fly out to the Bungle Bungle. A group will fly in to to a small airstrip nearby, and EKT meets them with a bus, takes them for a tour of the Bungle Bungle, and provides lunch. Other individuals or groups fly in for multiple day tours, and some (like us) drive in for multiple day tours. We skipped the tour and instead used the lodge as a place to sleep and eat.

On the second day we went to Echidna Chasm, a slot canyon on the north side of the Bungle Bungle 20150415_181610_Richtone(HDR).jpg

Echidna Chasm (2) 20150415_181727.jpg

Echidna Chasm (3) 20150415_182913_3_bestshot.jpg

Echidna Chasm (4) 20150415_183300.jpg

Echidna Chasm (5) -- Katerina spider walk 20150415_184042.jpg

Echidna Chasm (6) 20150415_184829.jpg

Echidna Chasm (7) 20150415_185115.jpg

Echidna Chasm (8) 20150415_185533.jpg

Group photo at the Visitor Center for Purnululu National Park 20150415_211531.jpg


Broome


Next we drove back to Kununurra and flew on a tiny plane to Broome. We stayed in a hotel walking distance to the beach, and went for a twilight walk along the beach to find a place to eat dinner.

On the drive back to Kununurra 20150415_212055.jpg

Broome beach walk (1) 20150416_234131.jpg

Broome beach walk (2) 20150416_234720.jpg

Broome beach walk (3) -- these little crabs are crazy active 20150416_235107.jpg

Broome beach walk (4) -- crab trails 20150416_235645.jpg

Broome beach walk (5) -- more crab trails 20150416_235810.jpg

Beautiful sunset on the boardwalk above the beach (1) 20150417_012653.jpg

Beautiful sunset on the boardwalk above the beach (2) 20150417_013258_Richtone(HDR).jpg

Beautiful sunset on the boardwalk above the beach (3) 20150417_013411_Richtone(HDR).jpg

Dinner overlooking the beach 20150417_015430.jpg

The Horizontal Falls


Very early the next day we met for the beginning of the Horizontal Falls Seaplane adventure. We started the day with a 40 minute seaplane ride east to Talbot bay. The close pass to the horries and the water landing are your first thrills of the day. Then you pull up to the floating palace in the middle of nowhere: a collection of rafts and house boats. In high season they have four float planes, three FAST boats, two 4wd buses, and helicopters. Pretty wicked cool.

We had a lovely breakfast (BACON!) in the shade and then we were off in the fast boat. Trip 300 HP outboards make this really really fast. Epic is what the kids called it. The run through the two tidal pinches (the horries proper) is fantastic, but you also get a lovely long tour of cyclone creek and the geologically outstanding upthrust king Leopold sandstone and conglomerates, and a meander among the mangroves.

Then back to the floating base of operations where the reason you want the full day option becomes obvious: the half day folks are back in the float plane for the flight back. The full day folks can have another coffee and then back on the fast boat for another few runs at the horries. Outstanding.

In the seaplane (1) -- Robert had the copilot seat 20150417_141325.jpg

In the seaplane (2) 20150417_141345.jpg

We started from Broome and proceeded counter clockwise along the green route 20150417_144413.jpg

Talbot Bay 20150417_150320.jpg

The Horries Proper -- the two tidal pinches you see right below. There is no tide action in this photo. 20150417_151347.jpg

The floating base of operators for HFSA 20150417_171902.jpg

They do some shark interaction on the floating platform 20150417_154723.jpg

In the fast boat on the way through the Horries, the wider pinch 20150417_165025.jpg

In the fast boat on the way through the Horries, the narrow pinch 20150417_164209.jpg

Happy riders on the fast boat 20150417_165954.jpg

The tour along cyclone creek, and the upthrust king Leopold sandstone (1) 20150417_165921.jpg

The tour along cyclone creek, and the upthrust king Leopold sandstone (2) 20150417_170224.jpg

The tour along cyclone creek, and the upthrust king Leopold sandstone (3) 20150417_170428.jpg

The tour along cyclone creek, and the upthrust king Leopold sandstone (4) -- mangroves 20150417_171224.jpg

The tour along cyclone creek, and the upthrust king Leopold sandstone (5) -- beautiful expressions of geology 20150417_171634.jpg

Second pass through the Horries on the fast boat (1) 20150417_175127.jpg

Second pass through the Horries on the fast boat (2) -- riders enjoying WOT 20150417_175617.jpg

Next you get a seaplane run across the Buccaneer Archipelago to cape leveque where you swap modes of transport with another tour group that has come in by 4wd bus. A short tour of an indigenous run marine hatchery is followed by lunch (barramundi!) at an indigenous run resort.

Leaving the Horizontal Falls, a nice view of the Horries with tidal movement 20150417_183657.jpg

Flying over Cape Leveque 20150417_185610.jpg

Landed at Cape Leveque 20150417_190835.jpg

A beach at Cape Leveque (1) 20150417_213754.jpg

A beach at Cape Leveque (2) 20150417_214115.jpg

The pearl shell church on Cape Leveque, with the interior decorated with local pearl shells (1) 20150417_232517.jpg

The pearl shell church on Cape Leveque, with the interior decorated with local pearl shells (2)

Here is where our tour went off the plan a little. The air con in the bus had broken down, and instead of running us back sweltering the 2 hours to Broome, the company decided to send a plane to pick us up. Waiting at a nearby airstrip was a small plane from a different company. So HFSA chartered a different company to come pick us up. We were all pretty impressed.

On the bus with the broken air conditioning 20150418_000634.jpg

The unscheduled sea plane for the quick ride back to Broome 20150418_002521.jpg

Our full day tour with the Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventure company (HFSA) was beyond outstanding. At first look the trip seems pricey, especially for a family of five, but I tell you truly, it is worth every cent.

Final day in Broome, a visit to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm


On the final day we had time for a quick morning trip to the pearl farm before the return flight to Perth. At the pearl farm we decided what the heck, and went up for a quick helicopter tour as our goodbye to Broome.

Out on the boat for the water part of the tour. Apparently there are a couple of very large salt water crocs (salties) in that bay, and visitors dont always show them proper respect. 20150418_180357.jpg

Helicopter tour (1) 20150418_185604(0).jpg

Helicopter tour (2) 20150418_185650.jpg

Helicopter tour (3) 20150418_185844.jpg

Helicopter tour (4) 20150418_185955.jpg

We had a very enjoyable trip to the Kimberleys, and would only make a small change in planning to come at a better time of year when the interior was not so hot.

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