On the last weekend in August the boys and I spent a long weekend at Henry Coe state park (http://www.coepark.org), the largest in Northern California at 23,000 acres. What is really nice about the park is that it is designed for backpackers (http://www.coepark.org/backpacking.html): car camping is an afterthought instead of the main attraction. I found the park by researching virgin backpacking trips for the boys that would present some easy options like a short hike in.
Looking ahead we might do a future trip to Coe where we hike 5-10 miles a day and spend the night in 3 different sites. This trip was in the middle of the dry season and most lakes and streams were empty, but in the spring there are tons of lakes and springs and the fishing is rumored to be excellent.
Friday
We arrived Friday around 1:00 pm after less than two hours drive south and had our pick of sites at the Headquarters Camp. We planned to get familiar with the area for the first two days, and go backpacking on the last day/night. I bought a new plastic trail map for $2 more than a new paper map, and the plastic ones are waaaaay better than paper. We planned a short 5 mile hike up to “Frog Lake” to get the lay of the land.
The first overlook on the ridge just above the camp.
There was a 1/2 mile of nice singletrack as you can see in the next two pictures below. After the singletrack the trail joined a dirt road and was steep and very slippery with loose dirt. The part on the road was not all that enjoyable.
Trail sign for Frog lake.
Poison oak is everywhere.
When we left the campsite, we brought our bathing suits and planned to go for a swim at Frog Lake. When we reached the lake everyone but Robert immediately changed plans and decided not to swim. Robert had to be restrained from swimming.
Here is Frog Lake. You can see why most of us decided we did not want to go swimming.
We took "Flat Frog Trail" back to the campsite (next couple pictures), and it was very nice. It was reasonably flat as the name suggests, and it swooped around the flank of the ridge for a very enjoyable return hike.
On the way back via the Flat Frog trail.
More Flat Frog.
We had a quick simple dinner where we first became aware of the most annoying feature of Heny Coe: the yellow jackets. Apparently this time of year is the worst for yellow jackets, and once you get dinner on your plate they just swarm around. We ended up walking around with our plates in our hands trying to outrun them.
Twilight was very enjoyable with a great breeze. I opted not to put the fly on the tent, and we thus had only light-weight screen above and slept with a nice view of the stars.
Robert took this photo of the twilight sky.
Saturday
The yellow jackets returned at breakfast. And they like cheese omelets as much as more traditional carnivore fare.
The downside of Coe: yellow jackets in wicked profusion.
Saturday was the big hike day. We had a good friend come up on Saturday and join us, our neighbor from across the street; Jeff, who you can see in the picture below. As Jeff pointed out to anyone who would listen in the days to come, he is 67 years old and was "lucky to return alive from the hike". I think he is pretty damn spry, as I found the hike pretty damn awful challenging myself.
We intended to go for a 6 mile hike and ended up on a 9.2 mile hike, due maybe to some possibly poor choices on the way (choices reached by consensus, I am anxious to point out). Overall it turned out fine, but we were on the trail for about 1/2 an hour without water before we got somewhere we could purify more water for drinking.
Here is a description of the route:
- Corral trail (0.6 mi) -- short single track from Headquarters to a meadow where most of the trails branch out. Everyone was fresh and happy for this trail.
- Fish trail (1.9 mi) -- single track up to the middle ridge. Some pretty serious climbing towards the end. Some minor complaining from the youngest hiker but no serious problems. Everyone was drinking plenty of water (maybe too much).
- Middle Ridge trail (2.3 mi) -- single track along middle ridge mostly descending. We stopped somewhere near the end of this trail for lunch. We realized that water was going to be scarce and started slowing down on water breaks, but the map showed a large creek a couple miles away.
When we got the end of middle ridge we found the creek, 20 feet across and looking like it would be major trouble to cross in the wet season. However in the dry season there was not a drop of water anywhere, and I started to get a little nervous about water.
By the shortest path we were 3 miles from Coe HQ, but that was in the full sun on a dirt road and with no water. An alternative route of about 2.0 miles brought us to "Bass Pond" which was a clear body of water on the map as large as Frog Pond, with another 2.0 miles back to the campsite.
After some discussion with a pair of backpackers we met who confirmed the water in Bass Pond, we decided to go for the water route. It did look much more pleasant, with the exception of a fairly steep climb in the first mile.
- Cougar trail (1.2 mi) -- very steep switchbacked single track, and no water for adults but small sips for kids. I carried Erick on my shoulders up the steepest parts, and the younger contingnent was starting to moan and groan and there may have been a small tear or two but they dont stick in my memory. At this point I was wondering how much our guest Jeff was enjoying my selection of hikes.
- China Hole trail (1.1 mi) -- flat single track in the full sun, and now there is no more water for anyone. After the climb this trail was initially a blessed relief because it was flat. The relief tapers off quickly when you are in the full roaring sun and starting to fixate on ice cubes and tall glasses of water.
- Manzanita Point Road (1.6 mi) -- dirt road in the full sun. There was only a 1/2 mile to Bass Pond, and we were able to survey the choice of campsites for our backpacking trip the next day. We refilled all the water bottles using the MSR water purification pump at Bass Pond, and the boys went for a clothing optional swim.
This turned out to be a great break, and totally justified the slightly longer trip back to the camp. After a swim and plenty of water the final 2.0 miles back was no problem at all, and we all basked in the feeling of overcoming adversity.
Overcoming the challenges is what will make the hike memorable, and is what will likely prevent Jeff from ever hiking with us again.
The beginning of the Death March.
One of the dips on the Fish Trail before the climbing up to Middle Ridge begins. Robert talked Jeff into toting his backpack.
On the way up to Middle Ridge.
Action shot of Erick just as his feet slipped out.
Tired, hot, and super tuff. Wait until later on when you see what kind of stuff is in that backpack.
This is after the big climb up cougar and the four year old is obviously getting tired.
Even the 8 year old thinks this is enough.
After the well deserved rest and swim at Bass Pond, on the final approach back to Coe Headquarters. 
Sunday
Saturday we left the camp at 10:00 am and returned at 4:30, for almost 7 hours on the trail. YIKES! Well, it was memorable. We got back and had some cold drinks and decided that we would cancel the backpacking and just vegetate on Sunday.
Then we started talking about what to do, and we realized that vegetation was kind of a crappy option, and we realized we could bring our fishing gear back to Bass Pond and see how well named it was. Which led to thinking about just bringing the camping stuff as originally planned. So that is what we did.
Jeff was a great help in getting everything packed up and put away on Sunday before he headed home for an R&R trip to Hawaii. We cleared out of our site at the headquarters, then went to the Visitor Center for a "badging ceremony". Robert had finished the Junior Ranger workbook, and had helped Erick to finish his. They both earned Junior Ranger badges from the head Ranger at the park.
I crammed a tarp, three sleeping bags, the camp stove, fuel, food, fishing tackle, and various other stuff into my too small backpack and we hit the "backcountry". Robert was pretty well loaded up with water, and Erick was pretty well loaded up with some stuff you will see in a minute. I did not bring the camera, but was able to capture some pictures using the cell phone.
The start of the 2.5 mile hike to the "backcountry" campsite.
We were headed to Manzanita Point on the road
Picture taken on the cell phone and posted to Facebook thinking there would be no more cell service. 
We made the hike with no problems. Everyone was cheerful and happy, and we only had to choose what campsite we wanted before heading back to the pond. The ranger had suggested #5 and we thought we were in it but it turned out to only be a picnic table near an outhouse.
We thought this was site #5 (advertised to be the best) but was really just a picnic table near an outhouse
Here are the essentials that Erick carried in his backpack on Saturday and Sunday.
Essential gear: dog, mouse, alligator, and parrot. My parents may recognize "bite", who has maybe hiked around more than any other stuffed alligator.
After some more map work we found #5 and relocated. I complained about the size of my pack but it was my own fault. I didnt really need to bring a pillow but I did.
This is the real site #5, infinitely better than the picnic table near the outhouse.
Dinner was simple but particularly yummy. Enough pasta there even for John Donovan.
Exploring the neighboorhood
No campfires allowed but fortunately there is more than one way to toast marshmallows.
We spent a lovely night under the stars and a nearly full moon and were not disturbed by any racoons.
In the morning we tried Bass Pond again but found that it may be inappropriately named.
1/2 mile from Coe Headquarters on the return.
Erick with his binocs.
Erick made it back with no complaints!
We finished the trip in fine style.
Obligatory picture of child who was not able to go camping.
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