2013.05.23 -- Backpacking The Desolation Wilderness

Alternate title: High Sierra Snow Frolic

We jumped on the chance for a 3 night 4 day backpacking trip to the Desolation Wilderness on Memorial Day weekend, and had a really enjoyable trip. Way more snow than we expected, but the lack of other people really enhanced the experience.

We left on Wednesday night, spent the first night in the Strawberry Lodge, and returned on Sunday. Thursday and Friday we saw 7 people total the entire two days, but the back country became more like Grand Central station on Saturday and Sunday, and we encountered maybe another 100 before getting back to the car.

The Strawberry Lodge is an historic roadhouse that has been around since the 1850s, and is located maybe 10 minutes from Echo Lake (location), where we entered the wilderness. We rented a small european style room (shared bathrooms) pretty cheaply and enjoyed a country dinner and breakfast in the restaurant before starting the backpacking trip on Thursday.

Link to Strawberry Lodge

Usually we start the trip later in the year and take the water taxi at the east end of Lower Echo Lake (location), which shaves off about 1.5 miles of the trek around the shore of Upper and Lower Echo Lakes. This year since we got started early, the boat was not running yet so we hiked along the shore.

At the northwest corner of Upper Echo Lake (location) we jumped on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and planned to take that 5 miles W-NW to Lake Aloha, one of our favorite spots in the world.

At the advice of Larissa and Mom and Dad, I was outfitted with a new satellite personal locator beacon for this trip (the Delorme InReach), and since my 15 yr old GPS finally stopped working I had also bought a new one (Garmin Oregon) together with some 24K topo maps of the Western US. The GPS turned out to be invaluable as you will hear about later, and the PLB allowed us to post from a set of 3 short messages to update our status while in the backcountry.

At the start of the trip near the dock on Lower Echo Lake


Just west of Upper Echo Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), at the boundary of the Desolation Wilderness

Snow Snow Snow

We have been in Tahoe before in May (see here), but never into the Desolation Wilderness. We didnt really plan for the amount of snow we encountered. In retrospect, snowshoes would have been entirely appropriate. For several miles the trail was completely covered by the snow, and since we were some of the first ones out, there were no reliable trails to follow.

The top of a trail marker above the snow.


When we started out in the snow I was convinced I could follow the terrain and didnt really need the GPS, so we ended up on the "moron trail" pretty quickly. We ended up about a mile off course, above Lake Lucille (location), on a very scary talus slope where the rocks shifted with every step.

Erick on the scary talus slope


I finally figured out to hold the GPS in one hand and carefully watch in order to get back on the trail. After another couple miles of trudging through the snow we made it to Lake Aloha. We found a great new campsite and recorded a waypoint on the GPS in order to more easily find it again.

Tent meditation with the far shore of Lake Aloha in the background. What a great spot.


Since it became pretty cold very fast after the sun went down, we went to the tent right after dinner and played some cards. I spent some time teaching the boys important life skills like the difference between a flush and a straight, how you need a straight flush to beat four of a kind, and where a full house sits in the ranking.

I made coffee with the titanium french press, always a really nice way to start the day


The kids had tea

Lake Aloha to Susie Lake

Now the plan was to go to Susie Lake, our favorite camping spot. We had originally planned to go a lot farther, but the snow really slowed us down and cramped the travel plans. 1 mile slipping and sliding on the snow is like 2 and 1/2 on the clear trail.

On the trail around the north end of Lake Aloha


Aloha Traverse (1)


Aloha Traverse (2). Lots of snow.


At the north-west end of Lake Aloha, we came to the junction of the PCT with the trail to Mosquito Pass. You can read about our trip to the aptly named Mosquito Pass here. We continued on the PCT towards to north, to Heather Lake and Susie Lake.

The pass down from Aloha towards Heather lake was a very long stretch on steep snowy faces with no trail visible. But once you clear the first 1/2 mile, the rest of the trail from Aloha to Heather is really my favorite bit of trail on the planet, even better than the high peaks at Pinnacles National Monument. There are waterfalls to cross, and a fantastic stretch on the shore of Heather Lake just below a huge slope of rocks at the angle of repose that is really inspiring.

Pacific Crest Trail marker


A stream crossing with a lovely alpine pond in the background


Log crossing at the south end of Susie Lake (1)


Log crossing at the south end of Susie Lake (2)


We traversed a nasty stretch of snow at the south end of the lake, pictures below on the return. Then we found a new campsite on the north east end of the lake that was fantastic. Sheltered from the wind and with enough trees for some privacy, but with a small rocky promontory onto the lake. There were two other people camped at the lake, but they left after we got set up.

Rounding the south east corner of the lake (1)


Rounding the south east corner of the lake (2)


Some critter Erick captured with his camera

Polar Bear Qualification

Remember all those years on Valcour Island, swimming before Memorial Day was a tradition? Well swimming in high Sierra snowmelt is actually colder, but we are officially polar bears. I went in first, after considerable time to motivate myself. The kids were unable to get in the water by themselves, so I was forced to throw them in, so they too could join the polar bear ranks.

Swimming


Lying on a flat sun warmed rock in order to take the chill off


Saturday morning at Susie Lake


Re-crossing the log jam at the south end of Susie Lake (1)


Re-crossing the log jam at the south end of Susie Lake (2)

Scary Traverse

The second scary thing on the trip was the traverse of the south end of Susie lake. The trail was completely covered, and the snow was at a steep angle with the price of slipping a swim in the lake with full packs.

The trail runs on the far right side of this picture, buried under the snow


Traversing the scary bit. Maybe instead of taking pictures I should have roped up the boys.


Another off camber section of trail covered by snow


Taking a break in a picturesque spot


Waterfall (1)


Waterfall (2)


Sunset back at the Lake Aloha campground (1)


Sunset back at the Lake Aloha campground (2)


Setting up for a final picture of Lake Aloha


Some wildflowers up on the slope above Lake Aloha


Lake Aloha (1) -- we climbed up the slope to get some good pictures


Lake Aloha (2)


Back on the trail we took a final photo looking back towards Lake Aloha


Lots of snow on the trail back to Echo Lake (1)


Lots of snow on the trail back to Echo Lake (2)


Overall a really excellent trip. We have decided to try to get back one more time before we leave for Australia, and hopefully bring Larissa and Katerina for their first time in the spectacular Desolation Wilderness.